Monday, September 14, 2009
Day 9
Depart Matènwa 5:30 am via motorcycle to airstrip for flight back to Port au Prince on Mission Air. Ride was even more fun on the way down! Sad to be leaving, had a great time and met interesting people. Back to our “reality.”
Day 8
Last full day in Matènwa, will be sad to leave. It was also Chris Low’s birthday!
Started the day by bathing at Nan Jozen, nice to use running water. Helped out a little bit more in the computer lab and then just took it easy for the rest of the day.
Discussed the future of Matènwa with Chris Low. Brainstorming session on how the community could generate income for itself. We discussed ecotourism (hiking/biking), bees/honey/wax, goat milk/cheese. Hopefully we were of some assistance.
Packed up, slept.
Started the day by bathing at Nan Jozen, nice to use running water. Helped out a little bit more in the computer lab and then just took it easy for the rest of the day.
Discussed the future of Matènwa with Chris Low. Brainstorming session on how the community could generate income for itself. We discussed ecotourism (hiking/biking), bees/honey/wax, goat milk/cheese. Hopefully we were of some assistance.
Packed up, slept.
Day 7
Chris Emery's B-day, really happy he got to spend it in Haiti.
We helped with the computers a bit more today, still had trouble with Excel. We did manage to teach a few people though how to burn cd’s/dvd’s and better use their email accounts.
Robert planned a surprise party for Chris at his house, decorations by Juju. Fried vegetables and pumpkin soup were served for dinner. The pumpkin soup was actually a take on Haiti’s national dish called ”Independence Day Soup.” It was a cream of pumpkin soup with dumplings, potato, sweet potato, and cinnamon (I think). While at Robert’s house it rains for the first time in a while and everyone is happy. Rain means no drought, which means people won’t starve…always good! Because of the weather Robert invites us to sleep at his house and we are provided with first class accommodations. HAITIAN HOSPITALITY IS UNBEATABLE!
We helped with the computers a bit more today, still had trouble with Excel. We did manage to teach a few people though how to burn cd’s/dvd’s and better use their email accounts.
Robert planned a surprise party for Chris at his house, decorations by Juju. Fried vegetables and pumpkin soup were served for dinner. The pumpkin soup was actually a take on Haiti’s national dish called ”Independence Day Soup.” It was a cream of pumpkin soup with dumplings, potato, sweet potato, and cinnamon (I think). While at Robert’s house it rains for the first time in a while and everyone is happy. Rain means no drought, which means people won’t starve…always good! Because of the weather Robert invites us to sleep at his house and we are provided with first class accommodations. HAITIAN HOSPITALITY IS UNBEATABLE!
Day 6
We tried to milk a goat today so that we could show the Matènwa locals how to make fresh goat cheese (cottage cheese really). The goat we were brought, however, had no milk (3 or 4 squirts)…bust!
Apparently no one on the island uses goat milk, they say the little goats need it. It makes sense, but goat cheese could add a new dimension to their diet.
No goat’s milk = no cheese = time to play guitar/sing along! Robert, who told us early on during our visit that he would like to learn how to play “Redemption Song”, shows us that he has indeed learned the intro…we only showed him a few days earlier!
We wind down the evening by washing some clothes and taking a bath down at Nan Jozen and then hanging out at Robert’s house, where we practice “Redemption Song” and play with his cat on a leash.
Laid back Saturday.
Apparently no one on the island uses goat milk, they say the little goats need it. It makes sense, but goat cheese could add a new dimension to their diet.
No goat’s milk = no cheese = time to play guitar/sing along! Robert, who told us early on during our visit that he would like to learn how to play “Redemption Song”, shows us that he has indeed learned the intro…we only showed him a few days earlier!
We wind down the evening by washing some clothes and taking a bath down at Nan Jozen and then hanging out at Robert’s house, where we practice “Redemption Song” and play with his cat on a leash.
Laid back Saturday.
Day 5
We attended the weekly (every Friday) school meeting/assembly. MCLC’s is particularly interesting in that it is an open forum. Both students and teachers were encouraged to express concerns or ideas pertaining to the school…democracy at it’s finest! Students also performed some skits that they had prepared during the week; they pertained to treating others with respect, proper dental hygiene, etc.
School lets out early on Fridays because Friday is market day. The local market is open air and sells everything. Vendors make trips to the mainland, and even the U.S., to pick up the goods they will sell at market. Meats (goat and beef) are left in the open air and can be bought pre cut or to order, chickens and roosters are bought live. While at the market we had an “interesting” conversation with a fellow who had been drinking the local moonshine, he was also missing both of his thumbs!?! We also ate lunch while at the market, red beans and rice with a small serving of goat meat…it was delicious!
After the market we continued on to Terre Blanche to pick up some local honey. The locals keep the bee colonies inside hollowed out logs, “hives” cost money. Before purchasing the honey we were given a sample straight form the hive and still in the comb, we bought half a gallon! No bee suit was used while the man collected our honey, just some smoke and a straw hat (which he got after he was bitten on the head). Really tasty honey, gave some to Benaja and Zaza. While we waited on the honey collection Etienne and Chris played marbles, Etienne won…but just barely!
Walked back to school, ate dinner, slept.
School lets out early on Fridays because Friday is market day. The local market is open air and sells everything. Vendors make trips to the mainland, and even the U.S., to pick up the goods they will sell at market. Meats (goat and beef) are left in the open air and can be bought pre cut or to order, chickens and roosters are bought live. While at the market we had an “interesting” conversation with a fellow who had been drinking the local moonshine, he was also missing both of his thumbs!?! We also ate lunch while at the market, red beans and rice with a small serving of goat meat…it was delicious!
After the market we continued on to Terre Blanche to pick up some local honey. The locals keep the bee colonies inside hollowed out logs, “hives” cost money. Before purchasing the honey we were given a sample straight form the hive and still in the comb, we bought half a gallon! No bee suit was used while the man collected our honey, just some smoke and a straw hat (which he got after he was bitten on the head). Really tasty honey, gave some to Benaja and Zaza. While we waited on the honey collection Etienne and Chris played marbles, Etienne won…but just barely!
Walked back to school, ate dinner, slept.
Day 4
6:30 am trip to Nan Jozen for more DELICIOUS WATER. We helped around school today, we burned some language cd’s and helped some people set up and learn how to use email accounts. Tried to help with Excel…
Afternoon trip to Kalico Beach. Not really a beach, more of a swimming hole surrounded by waterfalls (beautiful). Got to jump off of some rocks into the water, always fun. We were accompanied by Ettienne, Wadson, Robert, Robert’s wife, Choudlie, Owen, and a whole gang of other people. Fun place, fun day! By the time we got back it was time for dinner and bed.
Afternoon trip to Kalico Beach. Not really a beach, more of a swimming hole surrounded by waterfalls (beautiful). Got to jump off of some rocks into the water, always fun. We were accompanied by Ettienne, Wadson, Robert, Robert’s wife, Choudlie, Owen, and a whole gang of other people. Fun place, fun day! By the time we got back it was time for dinner and bed.
Day 3
Wake-up call 6:30 am (Juju) – morning trip to Nan Jozen for water. The locals make this trip daily for drinking water and or running water bathing facilities, they often wash clothes there as well (so did we, once). IT IS ALSO ONE OF THE MOST DELICIOUS WATERS WE HAVE EVER TASTED, HANDS DOWN! After trip to Nan Jozen we eat breakfast, twice again!
Tour of school gardens (run by Eligéne). The schools gardening program teaches students the basic techniques of sustainable organic farming (very important seeing as how families grow a lot of their own food). We are told of a project Eligéne is a part of and are invited to visit his farm/nursery to see the project first hand.
On the trip to Bois Noir (the location of Eligéne’s farm) we stop at Etienne’s home/farm and he gives us a personal tour. BIG! Lots of corn (it was in season, everyone was growing it), sweet potato, squash/pumpkin, peas/beans, banana. Mangos were also in season and everywhere we went we ate them as we walked. There are multiple varieties of mango on the island so as we walked and ate we were actually treated to a wide variety of different mangos (all of them were delicious though). Wadson had a run in with a Bois Noir local over the fact that he was throwing rocks at some mangos in a tree and the farmer was worried that the falling rocks would damage his corn. Everything worked out though. We also stopped for some fresh coconut just before out look at Eligéne’s operation. Wadson ate 15 and drank 10, and he’d already eaten a whole bunch of mangos already! Ettienne ate the most mangos by far, he never refused the chance.
Eligéne shows us his operation. He is already running a fairly large sustainable organic farm. He would, however, like to expand and become a nursery that would provide for the local communities surrounding his farm. Drought is a big problem, he would like to be able to provide new crops to those individuals who are hit the hardest. He would also like to provide to those who perhaps can’t afford a seasons investment (trade off = no food!). Project of true value.
On the way back from Eligéne’s we stop at a cave that has a colony of bats living inside of it. Local farmers collect guano there. We sit inside to get out of the sun and have a chat. Return to Matènwa.
Tour of school gardens (run by Eligéne). The schools gardening program teaches students the basic techniques of sustainable organic farming (very important seeing as how families grow a lot of their own food). We are told of a project Eligéne is a part of and are invited to visit his farm/nursery to see the project first hand.
On the trip to Bois Noir (the location of Eligéne’s farm) we stop at Etienne’s home/farm and he gives us a personal tour. BIG! Lots of corn (it was in season, everyone was growing it), sweet potato, squash/pumpkin, peas/beans, banana. Mangos were also in season and everywhere we went we ate them as we walked. There are multiple varieties of mango on the island so as we walked and ate we were actually treated to a wide variety of different mangos (all of them were delicious though). Wadson had a run in with a Bois Noir local over the fact that he was throwing rocks at some mangos in a tree and the farmer was worried that the falling rocks would damage his corn. Everything worked out though. We also stopped for some fresh coconut just before out look at Eligéne’s operation. Wadson ate 15 and drank 10, and he’d already eaten a whole bunch of mangos already! Ettienne ate the most mangos by far, he never refused the chance.
Eligéne shows us his operation. He is already running a fairly large sustainable organic farm. He would, however, like to expand and become a nursery that would provide for the local communities surrounding his farm. Drought is a big problem, he would like to be able to provide new crops to those individuals who are hit the hardest. He would also like to provide to those who perhaps can’t afford a seasons investment (trade off = no food!). Project of true value.
On the way back from Eligéne’s we stop at a cave that has a colony of bats living inside of it. Local farmers collect guano there. We sit inside to get out of the sun and have a chat. Return to Matènwa.
Day 2
Mosquitos get an early start (sunrise), so so do we. Zaza prepared us a breakfast of sweet cornmeal, delicious and hearty…really, really hearty.
Etienne arrives and walks with us to school. As it is our first day, he planned to show us around the school and introduce us to/spend a little one-on-one time with the teachers. Breakfast is served to the students every morning and we are treated to or second breakfast of the day, cornmeal and beans (delicious and hearty as well…really, really, really hearty).
We meet the music teacher, who jams for us a little and speaks French (at least Ridge could communicate with him). Next stop, Robert’s class. Robert turns out to be one of the most organized people we’ve ever met. His classroom is well put together and looks like a place any kid would enjoy learning in. We tour the central building, a round structure in which there are multiple classrooms, one room divided into multiple “rooms” by using blackboards (think one room schoolhouse style). Upper level classes taught in this building.
Wadson (friend/storyteller/guide) joins the group, he is not from la Gonâve (just visiting) and will not be with us the entire week. Never the less, we are happy to have him along. Ettienne decided to take us to the Art Centre where we watched women make scarves/tapestries out of silk and colored dyes. They would first sketch their designs onto the silk with a pencil, then trace over the design with a glue mixture (this assured that all the colors did not run together), then ink, and then salt to help the drying process/add “dimension” to the colors/design. We also saw women “quilting” original designs as well.
While taking a break in the shade Etienne introduces us to the candelam/chandeliere plant. This plants white sap burns like acid so it’s a good idea to stay away from it. Locals use it to brand/mark their livestock.
Etienne arrives and walks with us to school. As it is our first day, he planned to show us around the school and introduce us to/spend a little one-on-one time with the teachers. Breakfast is served to the students every morning and we are treated to or second breakfast of the day, cornmeal and beans (delicious and hearty as well…really, really, really hearty).
We meet the music teacher, who jams for us a little and speaks French (at least Ridge could communicate with him). Next stop, Robert’s class. Robert turns out to be one of the most organized people we’ve ever met. His classroom is well put together and looks like a place any kid would enjoy learning in. We tour the central building, a round structure in which there are multiple classrooms, one room divided into multiple “rooms” by using blackboards (think one room schoolhouse style). Upper level classes taught in this building.
Wadson (friend/storyteller/guide) joins the group, he is not from la Gonâve (just visiting) and will not be with us the entire week. Never the less, we are happy to have him along. Ettienne decided to take us to the Art Centre where we watched women make scarves/tapestries out of silk and colored dyes. They would first sketch their designs onto the silk with a pencil, then trace over the design with a glue mixture (this assured that all the colors did not run together), then ink, and then salt to help the drying process/add “dimension” to the colors/design. We also saw women “quilting” original designs as well.
While taking a break in the shade Etienne introduces us to the candelam/chandeliere plant. This plants white sap burns like acid so it’s a good idea to stay away from it. Locals use it to brand/mark their livestock.
Day 1
Departed from Miami (am), destination Port Au Prince. From what we understand, we are going to take a tap tap (independent taxi) to Carries Port (which used to be a Duvalier Beach house) where we will take either a sailboat or speedboat to la Gonâve.
Missed the speedboat/speedboat overloaded (notorious) so we boarded a "bâtiment" (sailboat). Sailboat was heavily loaded with supplies and people (60 + at least) and sat very low in the water. Trip over to la Gonâve ended up taking 4 hours, the island never seemed to get any closer! Totally lost in translation…we did, however, heed the advice of a fellow traveler and stay well hydrated. One guy slept in the sails the entire 4 hours, looked very comfortable. Bum rush for the dock upon our arrival at la Gonâve, everybody was ready to get off, stretch and get moving again. Waiting for Feonel (ride to Matènwa) everyone wanted to give us a ride…Feonel arrives (“Virginia is for Lovers” hat) with a friend and third leg of trip began. 1 hour + motorcycle ride over very rough “roads” (wide, rocky, trails really) straight up into the hills, destination: Matènwa.
Quick meet and greet with the teachers upon our arrival at the Matènwa Community Learning Center (MCLC). Everyone was very welcoming; we spend a little more time with Chris, Abner (co-founder MCLC), Robert (1st grade), Benaja (high school English/computers), and Etienne (high school Spanish and our friend/storyteller/tour guide/translator for the week). Meet Zaza (friend/cook/cooking instructor for the week) and she shows us to our house.
Both of us agree that this day of travel has perhaps been the most interesting/exciting we have ever experienced. Excited about the prospects the upcoming week holds. Exhausted…sleep.
Missed the speedboat/speedboat overloaded (notorious) so we boarded a "bâtiment" (sailboat). Sailboat was heavily loaded with supplies and people (60 + at least) and sat very low in the water. Trip over to la Gonâve ended up taking 4 hours, the island never seemed to get any closer! Totally lost in translation…we did, however, heed the advice of a fellow traveler and stay well hydrated. One guy slept in the sails the entire 4 hours, looked very comfortable. Bum rush for the dock upon our arrival at la Gonâve, everybody was ready to get off, stretch and get moving again. Waiting for Feonel (ride to Matènwa) everyone wanted to give us a ride…Feonel arrives (“Virginia is for Lovers” hat) with a friend and third leg of trip began. 1 hour + motorcycle ride over very rough “roads” (wide, rocky, trails really) straight up into the hills, destination: Matènwa.
Quick meet and greet with the teachers upon our arrival at the Matènwa Community Learning Center (MCLC). Everyone was very welcoming; we spend a little more time with Chris, Abner (co-founder MCLC), Robert (1st grade), Benaja (high school English/computers), and Etienne (high school Spanish and our friend/storyteller/tour guide/translator for the week). Meet Zaza (friend/cook/cooking instructor for the week) and she shows us to our house.
Both of us agree that this day of travel has perhaps been the most interesting/exciting we have ever experienced. Excited about the prospects the upcoming week holds. Exhausted…sleep.
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